Henrik Vibskov always puts on a show, and this time he didn't disappoint (in that respect), creating a rotating four-room building in the middle of the usual lycée he uses, with the models climbing through doorways to get around the catwalk. Sometimes, however, when a designer puts so much effort into his presentation it's a sign that he's trying to distract from the weaknesses of his collection, or that actually he's not really taking the whole 'fashion thing' that seriously. In this case I tend to lean towards the latter judgement - the collection was not poor, but it felt like Henrik hadn't really made that much of an effort. If you look back at previous shows, it seems like there hasn't been sartorial progression over the past year, he just keeps churning out the same looks (carrot-shaped and dropped-crotch trouser + loose cardi + bizarre spectacles = Vibskov staple). And that's fine for his large and devoted fan-base, but I feel you need to bring something new to the table every so often to justify having a place on-schedule at fashion week. To give credit where it's due, his strength does lie in his distinctly Scandinavian complex knits and prints, of which there were several, and the man knows how to cut an artistically drapey jacket (I especially liked those in grey wool with oversized lapels). But somehow I was just left wishing for more. Perhaps I just don't really get Vibskov's total artistic vision. I guess I'm not hipster enough for him.
No comments:
Post a Comment